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Explore the ancient Roman Amphitheatre ruins in Trieste, Italy, bathed in natural light.
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The Healing Pickaxe and Invented Ancestry

On arrival

Stop on Via del Teatro Romano at the base of San Giusto hill, where the excavated Roman cavea directly meets the curved rationalist wall of the Palazzo della Questura.

Look closer

The exposed semicircular cavea, orchestra, and scaenae frons of the 1st-century Roman theater sitting directly against the modern, curved travertine facade of the former Casa del Fascio.

The violent erasure of historic vernacular and Jewish urban fabric to excavate an ancient imperial pedigree.

Before you lies a 1st-century Roman theatre, but its sudden exposure is an artefact of 20th-century ideological violence. For hundreds of years, this hillside was covered by the dense, polyglot tenements of Riborgo and the historic Jewish Ghetto. Between 1934 and 1938, the fascist municipal administration unleashed the so-called 'piccone risanatore'—the 'healing pickaxe'. They demolished medieval lanes, artisanal workshops, the childhood home of poet Umberto Saba, and two historic synagogues specifically to unearth Roman masonry. The political motive was transparent: to fabricate physical evidence that Trieste was fundamentally an ancient Roman, and therefore strictly Italian, imperial city. In a tragic historical irony, this clearance campaign was commissioned and overseen by Enrico Paolo Salem, Trieste’s Jewish Fascist mayor. In August 1938, as anti-Semitic state policies took hold, Salem was forced to resign. One month later, Mussolini arrived in person to inaugurate these cleared Roman stones and publicly proclaim the Italian Racial Laws.

Accessibility at this stop

The arrival cue specifies stopping along Via del Teatro Romano at the base of San Giusto hill. Pavement condition, kerb cuts, and sidewalk width are unverified.

These notes describe known conditions at this stop. Urban conditions can change, so assess the situation on site.

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